Paris Fashion Week Men’s SS27 Is Shaping Up as the Most Anticipated Runway Season in Years
By Runway Magazine Editorial Team | June 7, 2026
Paris Fashion Week Men’s SS27 runs from June 23 to 28, 2026, and already the provisional calendar signals a week of unusual creative weight. The provisional calendar published by the French Fashion and Haute Couture Federation confirms a week of unusual weight. Overall, 74 labels will participate — a significant increase over January’s 66 — across 36 luxury runway shows and 38 presentations. The number of presentations has grown “remarkably,” as FashionUnited notes. Labels are searching for the fashion week schedule format that best connects with buyers and international media. Several of Paris Fashion Week Men’s SS27’s most anticipated moments involve designers showing first menswear collections at new houses — a configuration that generates a specific quality of attention: the debut.
Among all the confirmed names, three appointments at Paris Fashion Week Men’s SS27 stand above the rest in terms of industry anticipation. Michael Rider Celine SS27 will present a dedicated menswear collection after two seasons establishing his co-ed direction. Sarah Burton Givenchy will show her first dedicated menswear collection after three acclaimed women’s collections. Grace Wales Bonner will present her first menswear collection for Hermès on June 27. It is the first time the house has entrusted its menswear to a new designer since Véronique Nichanian held her final show. Together, these three presentations define the week’s creative argument. Increasingly, menswear in 2026 is being shaped by designers whose sensibilities were formed in entirely different conversations.
Michael Rider’s Celine and the Return to Substance
Michael Rider’s arc at Celine has moved with uncommon clarity since his appointment following Hedi Slimane’s departure in October 2024. Rider had worked at the house before — from 2008 to 2018 as head designer under Phoebe Philo. Already, his return carried the emotional weight of a homecoming. “Coming back to Celine, and to Paris, back to 16 Rue Vivienne in a changed world, has been incredibly emotional,” he said at his debut. “And a complete joy.”
The Celine SS26 Debut
His SS26 debut, presented on July 6, 2025 — a co-ed show at the house’s headquarters on 16 Rue Vivienne — established his direction immediately. Where Slimane had operated in video-only format, Rider restored the live runway show. The collection referenced all three predecessors — Kors’s sportswear, Philo’s minimalist tailoring, Slimane’s slim silhouettes — while moving in its own direction. Prep, sculpture, colour. Long wool coats with back slits, slim and carrot-shaped trousers, fine knitwear, sharp blazers. For menswear specifically, collegiate blazers, striped ties tucked into jeans, collared shirts layered beneath sweatshirts, colourful scarves draped over shoulders. Accessories built around gold chain necklaces, brooches, stacked rings. Esquire Middle East called it “the beginning of a bold chapter.” Monocle described it as “a welcome reset, grounded in covetable clothing.”
The FW26 menswear presentation — an intimate multi-room walkthrough in Paris, presented in January 2026 — deepened the argument. Rider replaced the traditional runway with a tactile experience that allowed guests to engage directly with craftsmanship and textiles. The philosophy: “character over costume.” Necessary pieces. High-quality staples appropriated into personal rhythms. Hypebeast confirmed the collection “firmly cemented his vision for the French house.” By SS27, Rider will have presented three seasons. By SS27, the showing is the first true evaluation of his menswear direction as a sustained body of work. The Celine runway show is one of the week’s most discussed fashion week highlights and menswear runway trends stories. For more on the creative director appointments reshaping luxury fashion in 2026, explore Runway’s Jonathan Anderson Dior era analysis.
Sarah Burton’s Givenchy and the Menswear Question
Sarah Burton’s trajectory at Givenchy since September 2024 has been one of the fashion industry’s most closely watched stories. Her background was specific. She had worked only at Alexander McQueen — turning his vision into reality, then building upon his legacy for over a decade after his death in 2010. The skills she brought to Givenchy — couture construction, the architecture of a silhouette — translated immediately.
Her Givenchy debut — FW 2025, March 2025 — was “a careful, forward-looking reset,” opening with a mesh bodysuit printed with “Givenchy Paris 1952.” Draped leather gowns followed. Her SS26 collection, October 2025, was described by Who What Wear as “somehow even stronger and more distinct than we could have hoped.” The front row included Jenna Ortega, Charlize Theron, and Cynthia Erivo. The model cast featured Naomi Campbell and Kaia Gerber. Burton received the WWD Honor for Womenswear Designer of the Year that year.
For FW26, presented in March 2026, Burton opened the aperture. WWD described it as “sensational” — menswear fabrics, velvet, animal prints, lace, and silver bullion, all deployed with a “sure hand.” A giant zoetrope-shaped runway added cinematic mood. “It’s about how you put yourself back together in a world that’s falling apart,” Burton said. Timothée Chalamet wore her double-breasted suit at the 31st Critics’ Choice Awards — confirming her Givenchy work was dressing well beyond the fashion circuit.
The Menswear Question
The menswear question has been present throughout. Burton sat out Paris Fashion Week Men’s in January 2026, opting for a lookbook instead. The resort 2026 campaign, featuring Paul Simonon and Rooney Mara, provided the first glimpse of her menswear direction for the house. Simonon in a black suit with a white shirt, flanked by his terriers, was a precise image of the kind of menswear Burton would build. Personal, rooted in character. The SS27 Paris runway shows will include her first dedicated menswear collection for the house. That makes it a designer runway debut within its own specific register. That anticipation is well-founded. Equally, the critical apparatus for this moment is already in place. Givenchy menswear had not previously been shaped by a designer of Burton’s specific background.
Grace Wales Bonner, Hermès, and the Week’s Third Major Debut
Grace Wales Bonner’s appointment as Hermès’s new menswear creative director is the quiet revelation of the season. Véronique Nichanian held the role for decades. Her departure represents one of the most significant menswear creative transitions among luxury fashion houses in recent history. Nichanian’s Hermès menswear was defined by a specific register: quiet, rigorously crafted, deeply material. It was a template of how a luxury brand can sustain menswear authority without volume, spectacle, or hype.
Wales Bonner brings a different vocabulary. Her own-name work — at the intersection of tailoring, Afro-diasporic references, and contemporary music culture — has made her one of the most critically significant menswear designers of her generation. She is a Turner Prize nominee, a winner of the LVMH Prize, and a designer whose presentations routinely function as cultural events. Hermès giving its menswear to Wales Bonner is, above all, a statement about what menswear authority looks like in 2026 — and about what kind of designer Hermès trusts to sustain that authority.
Her presentation is scheduled for Saturday, June 27, from 10am to 6pm. The presentation format is consistent with how Wales Bonner has historically structured her own work. It also reflects Hermès’s preference for controlled experiences over spectacle. It also reflects Hermès’s preference for controlled, immersive experiences over spectacle. What it will contain, stylistically, remains to be seen. The anticipation, however, is proportionate to the appointment.
The Week’s Other Significant Moments
Louis Vuitton, Dior, Saint Laurent
Beyond the three major debuts, the SS27 Paris runway season carries several additional points of interest. Louis Vuitton under Pharrell Williams opens the week on June 23 at 9 PM. Wallpaper called it “a blockbuster happening on the opening night” — consistent with the cultural scale Williams has brought to the house. Jonathan Anderson presents his third Dior Homme collection on June 24. His Cruise 2027 show at LACMA, called “electrifying and unresolved” by Business of Fashion, precedes it. His Dior menswear collections have generated consistent critical consensus as among the week’s strongest work.
Saint Laurent returns to the official FHCM calendar on June 23 at 5 PM. FashionNetwork noted its return alongside Celine and Hed Mayner as a signal of the calendar’s strengthening roster. Rick Owens, Lemaire, and Dries Van Noten show as usual. Vêtements returns on June 26 at 8:30pm after several seasons of irregular appearances. Hed Mayner returns on June 27 at 6pm. Several brands — Kenzo, Acne Studios, Lanvin, Isabel Marant — opt for presentation formats, reflecting broader runway show trends toward more controlled communications. Notable absences include Jacquemus, Marine Serre, Courrèges, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, and Bluemarble. The designer debuts 2026 story is defined as much by who is absent as who is present.
The Week’s Creative Argument
The Week’s Creative Argument
The broader menswear trends 2027 picture emerging from this Paris runway season is one of consolidation and character. Rider’s Celine prioritises substance over spectacle. Burton’s Givenchy builds from women’s expertise into menswear territory. Wales Bonner’s Hermès brings cultural authority to one of the world’s most heritage-bound luxury brands. Anderson’s Dior continues developing a creative argument across all three collection streams. Williams’s Vuitton operates at a scale no other house currently matches. Its opening night show sets the Paris fashion news tone for the entire week.
FashionUnited’s Paris Men’s SS27 preview confirms the provisional schedule includes 74 houses. Grace Wales Bonner for Hermès, Sarah Burton for Givenchy, and Michael Rider for Celine represent the week’s “statement” returns. FashionNetwork’s Paris Men’s SS27 calendar report confirms presentations have grown “remarkably” compared to January — a broader shift toward more controlled, immersive runway collections in fashion month news in June 2026. For all the fashion industry news, Paris fashion calendar coverage, and runway show previews that matter in 2026, trust Runway Magazine.
