VIKTOR LUNA: PLAYING WITH STRUCTURE, TEXTURE & THE UNEXPECTED
Born in Guadalajara, Mexico, Luna is a third-generation tailor who learned the trade, including construction and tailoring, from his mother. “I grew up in a creative, hands-on household and my mom was a sample maker who would make clothing all the time for me and my sisters,” Luna recalls. “I got a sewing machine as a gift. And I decided to give it a try and from there it was history.”
In 2003, Luna moved to New York City to get a formal education in fashion design at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Upon graduation, he interned with the fashion label Zero Maria Cornejo as a production assistant, where Luna says he learned how to create and run a business.
In 2009, the VIKTOR LUNA F/W collection featured pops of color (pink, silver and blue), with a focus on dresses, blouses and skirts crafted from a mix of materials. The following season, a sharply-contrasting S/S ‘10 collection was an edgy, black-and-white (but mostly black) mix of soft and hard, leather and lace, and over-the-top and wearable. From the perfect little black dress to an Oscar-worthy black gown, to a fringe suit most likely to be seen in a Lady Gaga video, the collection had it all – jackets, dresses, leggings, a skirt, even a vest and then some.
There’s a continuation with the VIKTOR LUNA F/W ‘10 collection, which focuses on separates and layering, structural fabrics and materials not necessarily associated with fashion. The couture, limited edition and special order collection is full of wearable modern pieces incorporating Neoprene, boning, pleather, plastic mosquito screening, spandex, tulle, silk chiffon, canvas and cotton. Proportion is at play in every sleeve, from the open, woven sleeve of a black dress to a magical jacket that makes the wearer’s arms appear detached from her body. Standouts include the perfect sleeveless little black shirt, a black bubble-skirted dress with a perfectly synched waist, and a Spain-inspired dress paired with sleek black leggings. Luna’s most recent collection is a study in black and white, full of separates that can transform a wardrobe from ho-hum to HELLO!
Viktor Luna has been featured in Plaster magazine, Encore magazine, The Ultimate Magazine, The New York Times Sunday Style Section, and his work has been featured editorially in Runway Magazine, Bello mag, U+Magazine and Blink magazine.
We caught up with Viktor recently to ask him more about his current collection and what’s next:
RM: Explain the transition between your S/S ‘10 and F/W ‘10 collections.
VL: I wanted to start with a clean canvas for my S/S ‘10 collection and as I completed this and realized how much more I wanted to create to that particular collection, I decided to translate it into a more autumnal mood; thus, the F/W ‘10 collection was conceived, containing much more volume and thicker materials that evoke richness and sophistication, yet still ties into that of the S/S ‘10.
RM: What was/were the inspiration(s) or muse(s) for the current (F/W ‘10) collection?
VL: My inspirations are mainly the duality and balance of life, and, from there, I got the idea of volume and sleekness. I was inspired by the old way of dressing and how grand it could look if the garments are exaggerated, but maintaining a modern view to the collection. I always see my muses or women as super-powerful people, whether in their daily life or in going out and having an enchanting time!
RM: What new techniques, materials or fabrics did you use in your F/W ‘10 collection?
VL: I used major volume and pleating with a rough edge to the looks and garments. It's something that I enjoy working with – the soft and hard, and black and white, etc. I used wools, wool jersey, canvas cottons, silk chiffon, beading, cable wires, satin, Neoprene…
RM: How have your collections evolved since you started?
VL: As a designer you are always in search of new and exciting ideas that can stimulate your creative mind, transcending it into a visual phenomenon. I am always looking to better the before and bring more and more. I have become darker in my designs but like always bringing balance into the garment that I know evokes power into the body.
RM: Who do you see wearing your designs?
VL: I see all ages of women wearing my designs...there is a bit of everything for everyone. I try to create garments that are special and timeless, and I do have many stylish and professional fans that wear my garments, whether it's for a party or work! VIKTOR LUNA is fairly new and has not yet been scouted to the celebs, but my focus is very much to conquer my fans and from there I am sure celebs will come by.
RM: If you could dress anyone, who would it be and why?
VL: I would love to dress the world! But if I have to choose one, I would say Roisin Murphy! I love her sense of style and the way she wears things. Roisin Murphy, please call me if you read this!
RM: What other designer's work do you admire, or what recent collection has caught your eye?
VL: I love Alexander McQueen! He is the ultimate revolutionary of fashion; he was a visionary and a prodigy. Other designers I admire are Balenciaga, Martin Margiela, Boudicca, and Gareth Pugh and many more. So many superb designers.....
RM: Any hints you can reveal about what we can expect from your S/S ‘11 collection?
VL: There will be a lot of colors, which will be a big departure from my previous two collections, and I am excited also to introduce the newest men's collection with a few more surprises!
RM: What important lessons did you learn from your first collection?
VL: To always be true to yourself and listen to your gut. Practice make perfect.